B18C Valve Adjustment
 
   
 
 
Last Updated - 01/01/02
About this How-To:
    Here's a  how-to on doing a valve adjustment yourself on a B18C engine. Honda recommends performing a valve adjustment every 30,000 miles. Read through the entire process thoroughly before starting this incase you are unfamiliar with what is required to complete the valve adjustment. At any point if you feel that you do not know exactly what to do, then do not attempt to do this on your own. Any mix up during this process can cause serious damage for your head, valves or pistons.
 
Tools Needed:
Jam-Nut Wrench (available from Snap-On for about 40 dollars)
Socket Wrench
10mm,16mm, and 19mm Sockets
Long Extension
Angled Feeler Gauges (0.006" - 0.008")
 
Parts Needed:
N/A
 
Notes:

Specs for Valve Clearance is:
Intake: 0.006"-0.007"
Exhaust: 0.007"-0.008"

 
Before beginning, Make sure the engine is cold (below 100F degrees). Its best to just let the car that your going to be doing this on sit over night.
Start by removing the valve cover by removing the 8 cap nuts and the ground strap bolt. 
Now remove the four remaining bolts that are under the spark plug cover. Make sure to set aside all the bolts and washers, most dealers will have to order these so you don't want to loose them. Also remove the breather hose. Remove the spark plug wires and spark plugs (removing the plugs will make it easier to turn the engine over). Carefully, remove the valve cover making sure not to damage the valve cover gasket

This is what you now have. 
You will now need to rotate the engine to TDC We are starting on cylinder #1 (Closest to the cam sprockets). Do this by using the 19mm socket on the extension. Locate the access hole to the crank pulley in the drivers side wheel well.
Turn the motor over by turning counter clockwise until the "UP" marks are facing up and TDC marks on the cam sprockets *Arrow in the picture* are aligned with each other
Once everything is lined up, you can loosen the two intake and two exhaust nuts for the first cylinder. Starting with the exhaust valves, Insert the 0.007" feeler gauge in-between the cam lobe and the lifter. turning the screw in the jam nut will loosen or tighten the clearance. With the gauge inserted, gently pull it in and out will slowly tightening the jam nut screw until you feel a "slight drag" This is always the hardest part of learning to adjust valves. The best way to figure out the feel of it is to adjust it so that the lowest tolerance will fit but the largest wont. (Basically on this exhaust valve, the 0.007" will slide in and out smoothly but the 0.008" will only barley go in) Once you have it to the point where it feels right, tighten the jam nut while holding the screw (otherwise the screw will tighten and you will have to do it all over again) After tightening, recheck the clearance to make sure it didn't change. TAKE YOUR TIME! its better to redo it that it is to replace the head! Now do the same thing for the intake side only but use the 0.006" gauge instead.

Now repeat the steps for the next 3 cylinders by rotating the crank counter-clockwise 90deg at a time. Adjust them according to the firing order: 1-3-4-2. Once you are done will all the cylinders, go back and check the clearances again (making sure to rotate each cylinder to TDC in the same order)
When you are all done, Take some gasket maker and apply a small pea sized dab to the valve cover gasket to each location shown in the pic. Make sure that the gasket is seated properly. Place the valve cover onto the head gently and seat it by pressing downwards on it. Replace the Plugs, Plug wires, and all the bolts MAKE SURE TO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!. Once complete, take it for a test drive and listen for any tapping . If you do hear tapping (more than it was before you started) let the engine cool down again and recheck all your clearances.
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